Grown Up Comfort Food: A review of Fumé Eatery at the Dubai Marina

December 20, 2016

GROWN UP COMFORT FOOD: A review of Fumé Eatery at the Dubai Marina

by Rosan Katlea Reodica

On a Thursday night, it’s clear that a place like Fumé – which is nestled in the posh Pier 7 at the Dubai Marina – would be packed to the rafters. In line for our table, we overheard a “Yes, we can wait, no worries” from a family of three: mama, papa and toddler. I can’t quite put a finger on what vibe this restaurant has, only that it oozes the perfect mix of friendly confidence, character and a homey charm without even trying (I think I just described my dream person!). The floors were shiny, the tables and chairs have an edgy and rustic look that match the unfinished walls and ceilings, and there are plenty of little details like plastic crates and a functional vintage fridge that make you feel like you stepped into someone’s stylish loft apartment. A bar and smoking area right smack in the middle is separated by walls from the main dining area. Lighting was a good balance of warm and cool tones. Families, couples on a first date, the rugged tourist bunch, business-y booze-y lads, and girls-who-lunch – Fumé attracts a diverse range of personalities, living up to its “neighborhood eatery” charm.

Hot Smoked Norwegian Salmon with Teriyaki Sauce & Pickled Cucumber

Three Lamb Cutlets with Korean Spices & Pickled Red Cabbage

We were served a 3-course set menu of their bestsellers. The server did a great job of charming us into trying the oddly-paired hefty crispy duck and watermelon salad, but after the first bite, we found out that the awesomeness of this dish requires no introduction. The fresh cilantro, spring onions, cashews and the hoisin sauce of the salad married perfectly and did wonders for our tastebuds. I wanted a second serving, but in came the mellow but hearty steak tartare with slow-cooked organic egg perfectly scooped out with toasted rye bread, and the simple-looking calamari that jumps into an exciting flavor tease with its Thai chili sauce and fresh lime. The starters were one major texture play. What I like about this place is that it reminds you of every mother’s cooking style – unassuming and filling, introducing the eatery’s multi-cuisine, comfort food dining concept without going overboard about it. As a home cook, I personally wouldn’t shell out money for comfort food eat-outs because I know I can make my own, but Fumé makes their dishes a great guessing game of “Yeah I know what this is, but it tastes different. The good different.” The mains served next made me wish I wore something loose-fitting for this bevy of salmon with pickled cucumbers, honey and chili chicken, potatoes with veal, capers and crème fraiche, and a huge pulled beef brisket bun filled the table. I didn’t know where to start. The hit though was the brisket bun with its vinegar slaw, and the potatoes for its stuffing and toppings. Chicken was a ho-hum, only to be saved by the yin-yang of the date and banana pudding with sticky custard and ice cream plus the 12 inches of pleasure that they call the salted caramel chocolate éclair.

Honey & Chili Marinated Chicken

Pulled Beef Brisket Bun, Vinegar Slaw

My favorite about Fumé? The friendly wait staff who knows how good their food is but do not oversell – it’s like when a friend cooks for you, plates and serves the dish to you, then steps back to wait for your judgement and squeals with delight once our eyes light up with approval. They know they had a winner dish, they just don’t want to be boastful about it.

Make your way to Fümé now!

YAY!