Philippine fashion veteran CHRISTIAN DE LEON ESPIRITU gives us a seasoned review of Filipino designer ALBERT ANDRADA’s show at the Philippine Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012 Grand Allure.
ALBERT ANDRADA’S UNDYING MAGIC
A couple of days after the eight day non-stop unveiling of fashion collections at the Philippine Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012 came to a halt, the die-hard fashionistas are presently comparing and sharing notes cum personal observations. Some go the length of passing on judgments such as who had the tackiest collection, or to their prejudiced mind exhibited the best.
Some base their judgments on which collection gathered the loudest bravo and brava tossed by fashion near-addicts who left the comforts of their homes so as not to miss the eagerly awaited miracles taking place on the fashion runways.
Albert Andrada is classified by many as one of the princes of Dubai fashion, hand-in-hand with the other bright fashion star, Michael Cinco. For PFW SS2012, the duo was joined by the fair Ezra Santos, likewise a name to reckon with in that abounding city in the world today.
GRAND ALLURE was the third outing of visiting Albert Andrada in the latest Philippine Fashion Week. Both his first and second foray was met with generous applause and wild whistles from his stunned audiences.
In the most recent PFW’s Grand Allure, his loyal fans behaved differently. When his initial teasers materialized on the ramp there was near stillness and silence among the spectators.
This occurrence can easily lead his detractors to bitch and conclude accusingly that the Andrada magic is no more! The clueless can easily be swayed by this unfair conclusion. Yet, ten thousand people with such opinion can all be wrong!
When this erstwhile fashion person was still in the grove of putting up fashion collections, I welcomed such near silence during my shows. The late Elvira Manahan, Chona Kasten and their gang mate Ramon Valera were the ones who enlightened me that when the audience is quiet it is a sign that they are so engrossed and smitten by the beauty and elegance of one’s collection. That is what they then told me, anyway.
The latest Andrada body of work was inspired by an ingenious theme. Hiawatha, Pocahontas are embodied in Albert’s Grand Allure Collection. There are so many arresting details fiercely led by the American eagle emblazoned on his signature outfit on Ria Bolivar – his piece de resistance.
Kilometric silken fringes inventively draped on the shoulders of his lovely models are guaranteed to take anyone’s breath away. In a very harmonious mode, the intricate filigree work floating on the skin toned basic tulle gowns can gladden even the most stoic members of the crowd that blessed Sunday afternoon.
Albert, believe your Maestro.
Ria Bolivar showing off the Andrada signature gownRia slowly disrobes to show the rear part of the gown
A piece emblazoned with the American eagleFringes cascading from the shoulders and gathered at the waist.Eagels wings delicately bejewelled!Even the male models dripped with fringes.Albert Andrada, the creator and the proofs of his luscious metier
Ever wonder what goes on behind-the-scenes of a glamorous haute couture fashion show? Photographer Eros Goze documents pre-catwalk moments at this year’s most celebrated happening at the Dubai Fashion Week SS2012 – Filipino designer Furne One’s Amato Couture Show. The behind-the-scenes peek reveals that fashion is not just about glamour, but also about hard work and the concerted effort of different experts making for one fabulous performance on the catwalk.
Backstage buzz at the Furne One DFW SS2012 Show with multicultural models and crew
Hair and Make-up Pro Jessie Tabla hard at workHair and Make-Up Pro Ginno Alducente glances at the cameraOther wordly beauty – the look at the Furne One DFW SS2012 showStrong and etherealBlogger Mariyah Gaspacho a.k.a. Mahryska stops by to check out the sceneModels relaxing on the floorFurne One checking with the hair and make-up crewA model taking a moment …Furne One surveys the catwalk at the Dubai World Trade Center Arena with the show’s choreographer
Furne One briefs the crew while a cameraman documents the eventModels wait by the sidelinesAudiovisual test in full swingModels go through their pacesA long and tiring day, made worth it by the fantastic show to come
As celebrated haute couture Filipino designer Furne One, known for creating pieces for Katy Perry, JLO and Nikki Minaj, gears to rock the runway at the Dubai Fashion Week 2011’s finale night on the 24th October 2011, we look at some of his most amazing works in the last couple of years.
Katy Perry in her World Tour 2011 and MTV Awards 2011 in Furne OneMore Katy Perry in Furne One – Press Conference & World Tour 2011 fitting
Nikki Minaj in her controversial Furne One dress at the MTV Awards 2011
Filipino designer Furne One show at the Dubai Fashion Week 2010
Furne One creations at Germany’s Next Top Model 2010
At the easternmost part of the United Arab Emirates, along the Gulf of Oman is the emirate of Fujairah. Here, the Royal Family has, under their wing, a unique kind of jewel – that is, haute couture Filipino designer Albert Andrada.
By Lalaine Chu-Benitez – Photos by Eros Goze
In the last two years, Albert Andrada has made his brand of couture sparkle, not only in the emirate, but also as a homecoming fashion hero in the Philippines.
A contemporary of Frederick Peralta and Eddie Badeo and a former member of the Fashion Designers Association of the Philippines, Albert left the Philippines for the Middle East in 1986, against his parent’s wishes, to venture out on his own and explore how far he can stretch his talent away from his comfort zone. Growing up pampered in an affluent Manileño family, his father predicted that he wouldn’t survive without the usual support system he had home. Thankfully, that prediction didn’t come true; Albert said that despite all the challenges he had to face in establishing a career from scratch as a designer in the region, he always believed that his move was probably the best thing he had done for himself and his designing career.
A charmed life in the Royal Household
Albert Andrada has been living a charmed life for the last nine years. As head fashion designer for the Royal Family of Fujairah and a trusted member of the Royal Household, the designer’s life is cloaked in grandiosity like nobody else can imagine.
Leading a design and production team of 29, Albert whom the Royal family hired after winning the Designer of the Year Award at the Swarovski Bridal Show in Dubai in 2002, manages the royal atelier which creates some 50 couture pieces on a monthly basis – just for the Sheikha and her three daughters. The job, which sounds more like the output of a commercial haute couture house serving many clients during peak season in the emirates, is no small feat. “It’s like creating a full collection for a gala fashion show every quarter,” Albert shares.
Then there are those trips all over the world – privileged class all the way and official escorts at every stop; luxury and the good life at every turn; summers spent in London where a stretch limo with a British chauffeur is at his disposal even for the proverbial “small trip” to the corner store. When Albert and Assistant Designer Rene Santos shop for the Royal family anywhere in the world, in luxury shops like Harrods (which is regarded by the Royal family like a favorite “sari-sari” store), they receive treatment that is only reserved for a chosen few. Albert fondly remembers one specific incident where a cashier’s till had to be closed because they exceeded the maximum allowable purchase for that day. Albert, who did not want to disclose the amount of that shopping trip, said, “Harrods’ management had to open another till just for us, to accommodate all the stuff we needed to buy.”
Still, with his exposure to all these luxuries, his influence and the liberties he’s been given, Albert, who is known in the local fashion circle for his exceptional generosity and kindness, has kept himself firmly rooted. “We have been very blessed to be treated so well by the Royal family, and I am very thankful. There was never a time when we felt like we were regarded as employees. So on my part, I always make sure that I deliver my best, that I am mindful of my place, and never abuse their trust, no matter how close I have become to them.”
That great attitude has certainly put the designer in good stead, because his number one supporter in pursuing his passion for fashion design is the Sheikha. “Away from my work in the palace, I’ve always missed designing for myself – just creating the pieces that I wanted to do on my own terms. So when the right time came, I asked for the Sheikha’s approval and I’ve been very blessed because she and her daughters have always encouraged me to go for it since then.”
A jewel of extraordinary luster and depth
A year ago, Albert made his presence felt in the fashion industry back home via the Philippine Fashion Week (PFW) 2010 unveiling a mini-collection entitled “Kohinoor.” The set featured elaborate and rich ensembles with crystals and mirror work in nude tulle, silks and satins, synthetic hair, elegant embroidery and draping inspired by the exotic aesthetics of Indian Maharajahs. And what a debut it was. Rave reviews and fashion blogs mentioned words like “jaw-dropping,” “spell-binding,” “dramatic” and “opulent,” referring to the show that would further whet Manila’s curiosity for the brand of haute couture that could only come from the rich canvas and creative playing field available to Filipino designers in the Gulf.
Gwendoline Ruais, Miss World Philippines 2011, models a piece from Albert Andrada’s Last Virgins of the Renaissance Collection
Then this year, Albert returned to PFW, this time with a collection called “The Last Virgins of the Renaissance.” His show, a collection of floaty pieces with exquisite ruffles, chiffons and organzas embellished with lace, gold and silver embroideries and splashes of Swarovski crystals here and there, was such a spectacle, audiences automatically assumed that it was the finale. Rave reviews once again followed, a TV interview with ANC, invitations from the industry key players and the metro’s ‘who’s who,’ as well as recognition from fashion watchers, cementing Albert Andrada’s position as a formidable one to watch out for in the Philippines; something the designer is set to follow through as he eyes the establishment of his own brand boutique at home.
Together with Michael Cinco and Furne One, Albert Andrada’s amazing show of world-class brilliance and bravura, unfettered by conventions and logistical limitations has definitely caught the attention of style pundits in Manila. Their impressive show of talent, including those of their UAE-based peers including Bandoix Flores, Ruben Santos, Angelo Estera, Cherry Samuya Veric, has created a new level of acceptance and recognition for the once “underestimated” so-called “OFW” Filipino designers in the Middle East. Albert also says, “Hopefully, seeing a different, braver and richer fashion perspective from us will also push our young designers to up their game and be more creative and competitive like never before.”
For Albert, designing is not an end in itself. Coming home with his designs has been a dream 25 years in the making.
He shares, “Going back to the Philippines for me is my way of paying back. I have always prayed that I become a blessing to others. I am the kind of person who wants to motivate and inspire people.” He furthers, “By showing my works, I want our young talented designers to be inspired, to dream beyond what is usual for them, to look out into the world, explore their creativity without limits – and take that back to the Philippines.”
And without a doubt, Albert Andrada, who is truly a jewel of extraordinary luster and depth, will get his wish – and that is to shine his gracious light on the international Philippine fashion firmament.
*Albert Andrada is all set to make his mark in Manila once again, at the Philippine Fashion Week this 30th October 2011.
Filipino Designers: The Dream WeaversPhotography: Eros GozeHair and Make-Up: Ginno Alducente, Jessie Tabla, Jojo PaduaModels: Chaps Yuson, Tanya Hyde, Elena Ivanova, Rowena Navarro and Kathleen MonteiroSpecial thanks to Andrew SorianoThey move in the rarefied field of haute couture, a style circle exclusive to a chosen few. Adored by the royals and prominent ladies of the region, these Filipino purveyors of high fashion envisage, create, execute and embellish exquisite pieces of personal art that many a dreams are made of. EZRA SANTOSThe divine, the ‘Imeldific’ Ezra Santos – style createur of the highest order, is known for his impeccable taste and exquisitely beautiful designs. His luxurious pieces which carry a distinct sense of muted aesthetics are worn by an enviable list of royals and prominent ladies in the Gulf. Last year, in his maiden gala show, “In the Beginning” Ezra showcased the revolutionized “butterfly sleeves,” the iconic Filipino style element, initiating a bold and credible trend with a sophisticated and edgy global appeal, beyond Philippine borders. On Tanya: Noir silk tulle dress with hand-made corded motif with black Swarovski crystalsREYNALDO GONZAGAOf royal designing lineage, Reynaldo Gonzaga has spun dreamy creations for the ruling family of Dubai since the late 80s to early 2000. Currently heading the creative department of Scalini Haute Couture a prime fashion house in Jumeirah Dubai, Reynaldo has gone a long way from his first atelier in Chinatown in 1980, working his way into the exclusive coterie of the region’s haute couture mavericks from Saudi Arabia to the emirates, with his exquisitely beautiful and ultra feminine designs. On Chaps: Sculptural gown in teal blue silk with ruched bodice, embellished with Swarovski crystals and a draped skirt in bias cut. ALBERT ANDRADAThe ruling family of Fujairah’s Royal Designer Albert Alba was born to design for royalty. His eclectic childhood spent in different cities around the globe, not to mention his constant travels, has shaped his love affair with fashion. Previously one of Issetan’s Board of Designers, member of the Fashion Designers Association of the Philppines, and Chief Creative Director in Sayidat al-Aziya, one of KSA’s most prestigious fashion houses, Albert now heads a team of 30 with three seasoned designers beside him, in the palace’s atelier where he has the best of materials and skills to work with. Albert is not only a royal designer, but is, in fact, royally loved by the community of Filipino designers in the emirates who regard him as a dear friend and natural leader. Tanya: Black shantung silk long jacket with shawl collar and bell sleeves, embellished with floral and butterfly embroidery using silk thread with silk pants featuring Chinese character inspired embroidery on side seam, matched with silk gloves with Swarovski crystals and made-to-order wedge shoes with multi-colored straws straps RUBEN SANTOSRuben Santos’ creations are much like poetry – timeless and elegant with a decidedly edgy twist. The renowned couturier from the UAE capital Abu Dhabi, designer Ruben of Queen Palace Fashion is adored by a high end clientele for his sophisticated and one-of-a-kind pieces that spell art and glamor in one richly embellished package. On Chaps: Strapless bustier top, beaded with Swarovski crystals in hexagonal shapes with layers of airbrushed crisp electric pleated tulle skirt done in uneven geometrical hemlines.ALDWIN ORNOPIA GUARDIANARomance, femininity and magic – are the hallmarks of designer’s Aldwin Ornopia Guardiana’s work.Particularly interested in life, events, and the environment which stimulate his imagination, Aldwin who designs for Art Fashion in Abu Dhabi, draws from the world around him to create pieces that are a definitive expression of femininity and an interpretation of romanticism. On Elena: Bustier made of draped tulle at the top, accentuated with brocade lace and Swarovski crystals, with an elaborately fully sequined Serpentina cut skirt with filmy layers of tulle further embellished with drop shaped Swarovski crystals and beads; neckpiece with exposed chainmail and burnished metal alongside delicate crystalsANGELO ESTERAA veteran of design competitions, in the Philippines and abroad, is edgy designer Angelo Estera. Fresh from yet another fabulous show at the Philippine Fashion Week in May, where he is a regular, Angelo’s works and designs reflects his skills in pattern manipulation and a simple understated design philosophy leaning to the young and trendy. On Chaps: A couture creation in sheer black stretch tulle, featuring a corseted top with handwork, accented with black Swarovski diamond crystals, and a fluidly hugging skirt, with soft bursts of handmade flower prints.ROCKY GATHERCOLEScene stealer and enfant terrible, controversial Rocky Gathercole is a designer whose clothes are undoubtedly talking pieces. Whether inspired by insects, or some otherworldly futuristic forms, Rocky’s creations never fail to raise eyebrows. The ebullient designer is known for consistently pushing the boundaries of design whether through unusual embellishments or cut work or the use of tantalizingly risqué cuts and materials. His designs are always very sensual, and command bravado from the women who wear them. On Elena: A two piece avante-garde ensemble inspired by snowy fairytales, featuring Swarovski encrusted wire corset with crystals dangling from the curled arches, matched with electric pleated bustle skirt.JIMI BUENCONSEJOFeeding the fantasies of the woman who wears it is the raison détre of each Jimi Buenconsejo piece.Unashamedly partial to the womanly silhouette, Jimi’s self-assured designs are very much skewed to the soft, flirty and alluring. A former member of the Board of Designers for Isetann, before he ventured to the Middle East to explore couture, where he has been designing for the last 18 years. On Elena: Ivory colored evening gown, embellished with sugar beads, petite pearls and Swarovski crytals. This serpentina gown has a long trail of tulle and chiffon; crystallized mask as accessory. ROD BALINGITJoie de vivre is indelibly reflected in designer Rod Balingit’s works.Rod who owns Gharasheeb in Dubai, stumbled into the world of fashion through designing costumes for dancing, has an irrepressible passion for life which spills through his works that are oftentimes playful and whimsical. His style is for the woman comfortable in her own skin, confidently in celebrating her feminine wiles. On Rowena: A-line ball gown with strapless organza corset accentuated with beads and Swarovski crystals. The skirt features layers upon layers of spiral crystal cut-out tulle and organza.ROMMEL MA. TUMULAKRommel Ma. Tumulak derives his style inspirations from the rich Arabesque design elements of the region.An artist before he became a fashion designer based in Abu Dhabi for almost two decades now, Mel’s style leanings are based on Arabic influences which he blends with current trends and his own personal flair; thus, his love for intricate detail, beadwork and embroidery. On Kathleen: Black organza evening dress with sequins and Swarovski crystal-encrusted bodice and serpentine skirt.RALPH RAMIREZDesigner Ralph Ramirez says “respect for the female form” defines his approach to design.And that’s one of the main things why his well-heeled patrons love his works. Ralph originally studied architecture but fell in love with fashion and eventually decided to pursue a career haute couture. Over two decades hence, Ralph continues to dream up and design beautiful pieces in his own atelier Lafana Haute Couture, based in Sharjah. On Rowena: Rich purple evening gown in layered soft tulle: hand-embroidered, fully beaded and Swarovski crystallized from top to bottom and accentuated with trims and laser-cuttings of silk velvet. The gown features a one-sided, bias-cut velvet frill on the shoulder and a fish-tail train at the back. HENRY MANGAHASWith refinement and glamor always in mind, Henry Mangahas’ designs focus mostly on soft fluid lines. His creations always carry alluring silhouettes, sometimes adorned with embroidery and appliqués, meant to please women of all ages. Henry, who manages and designs for La Reina in Jumeirah Dubai, believes that individuality and the artistic sense of every woman, makes for the perfect combination to come out with a perfect creation. On Kathleen: Delicate transparent tulle Grecian gown in subtle beige, cream and gold, layered with a slightly raised waistline and ruffled collar embellished with beads.
In a modest two level villa off Al Wasl Road in posh Jumeirah is the atelier of one of the Filipino community’s best fashion createurs. You walk into the unpretentious structure to be greeted by a black, grey and white foyer with two equally decadent rooms on each side – one a fitting room with deep raspberry walls and heavy silk curtains, the perfect backdrop for the designer in residence’s luxurious creations, the other a cerulean blue space with a plush maroon high back armchair and a leopard print chaise lounge, that’s so rich, so decadent – so very Ezra.
Perhaps, Ezra’s unassuming atelier is a close-enough allusion to the designer’s persona. Enigmatically reserved, and low-key, soft spoken Ezra is like a mysterious Pandora’s Box that bursts into unexpected richness, once opened. The antithesis of the mostly flamboyant characters in the fashion business, the designer exudes quiet confidence despite being one of the best locally-based couture designers who creates dreamy and extravagant gowns for the country’s top brass clientele.
Eight years into his own couture establishment, Ezra is not only an accomplished designer with his work featured in various high-profile magazines and events around the region, but a successful entrepreneur as well, running his own fashion house with 63 employees and generating high annual revenues in seven digits.
Last year saw Ezra achieve part of his glittering dreams when he staged his very own gala show entitled “In the Beginning” in April at the Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai – where the designer presented the revolutionized “terno” – an iconic Filipino national fashion treasure, reincarnated in all its stately glory in dresses featuring distinctively contemporary strongly articulated butterfly sleeves, drawing “ooohs” and “aaaahs” from the UAE and Gulf’s discerning glitterati. Absolutely no small feat for a debut show in the over-saturated fashion market of the emirates.
As if that was not enough, in September 2010, Ezra embarked on crossing out another aspiration from his bucket list when he made his debut in New York at the Couture Fashion Week. Showcased was his Spring/Summer 2011 collection entitled “Aafrique de Or” presented in the form of African goddesses and Nubian princesses. The fashion show held at the Grand Ballroom of the legendary Waldorf-Astoria on Park Avenue drew NYC’s elite, VIPs, the press, and premium store buyers.
Looking back, Ezra says just like many a designer who grew up with a definitive fashion influence in their young lives, he was fascinated by his mother’s sartorial elegance during his formative years. “I think I’ve always known that I wanted to be a designer since I was seven years old. I was always matching things and discussing fashion options with my mom, then.” Ezra says that he was also captivated by old films – finding design inspiration in the 40s black and white movies which showcased all-out Hollywood glam.
But Ezra took a detour before he went the style route – he studied Interior Design at the Philippine Women’s University (PWU) a breeding ground for the country’s bohemian and extremely talented artistic instigators. After a very brief stint in Manila, the young designer found himself in Saudi Arabia – the lure of a great career and the possibility to widen his horizons beckoned. The kingdom posed a very restrictive environment to most westernized expats, for Ezra however; coming to the Gulf was a liberation of sorts – an expansion of his design opportunities, what with the availability of all imaginable fabric and design materials, not to mention the local culture’s natural fashion inclination towards the grandiose.
It was a stark contrast to the limitations in the Philippines, according to Ezra. “That’s probably why Filipino designers are so good because they are trained with limited means. Back home, you’re supposed to be resourceful and ultra creative to make something amazing out of the simple materials available,” he observes. And create he did, making a mark in his five year stint in the kingdom, before eventually moving to Dubai to spend over a decade in the prestigious House of Arushi.
With his exceptionally good history and roster of accomplishments, Ezra’s approach to his vocation remains effortless and straightforward. He does not want to identify a definitive style except to say, “It’s simple but elegant. It’s always about the individual who’s going to be wearing my design.” Providing an intimate glimpse into the artist’s deep spirituality, he was also quick to add that all his efforts mean nothing if not for the abundant blessings he has been given from above. “It is not me, but Him who deserves the highest praise.”
Perhaps Ezra’s extraordinary achievements and commercial success can only be overshadowed by an even more promising future. Seeing how this designer’s name has become a veritable coveted brand among the country’s couture connoisseurs, one can almost state with a measure of certainty, that the world’s fashionistas will soon have a taste of a style – that’s quite simply Ezra’s.
Tongues have been wagging for months between the UAE’s fashion elite crowd and the Philippine style industry with news of Michael Cinco’s debut at the popular US reality show America’s Next Top Model Cycle 16.
Can we? Could we finally officially announce it? We were told to keep mum – tough for such hot news on one of the Filipino community’s top couture designers.
But here it is – finally! Airing this Wednesday is La Cinco’s debut on ANTM Cycle 16.
Michael says, of his ANTM stint, “I live in a place where I see amazing and beautiful things around me almost every day – a place where people aim the greatest, the highest, the grandest. So there are times that nothing fascinates me anymore…as if everything is NORMAL. But when I received a call from the producers of ANTM, I felt so ecstatic and I felt it far from being ‘normal.”
He also shares that when he met Tyra Banks on the set of ANTM the first thing she him was – “So you’re the first Filipino designer in our show and you’re based in the Middle East. Did you bring all the blings from Dubai?”
And the designer did more than just bring the “bling,” he brought his own brand of ingenuous and cutting edge fabulousness with a decidedly elegant twist.
On fashion and fabulousness, Michael recalls a conversation he had with Naomi Campbell when he dressed her in Dubai some ten yrs ago. The supermodel asked the designer about the other things he wanted to do in life other than fashion. Michael replied, “I can’t imagine myself doing anything else than fashion. I eat couture, I breathe couture, I sleep couture.”
To whet your insatiable style appetite, here are choice pics from the show.
Michael Cinco with the photographer-Nigel Barker and Jay Manuel at the landfill where Michael’s pieces were shot.
Join the wave of the new age green movement by finding style in ordinary everyday bits and pieces, recycled materials and found hardware that celebrate diversity in expression, textures and artistic interpretation. Challenge the establishment with out-of-the box thinking and intelligently crafted pieces, which toe the line between eco art and fashion that’s stylishly sustainable.
Egg and Paper Ingénue
Turn of the century, white dress made out of recycled kitchen towels and a bodice embellished with eggshell mosaic in graduating sizes – by Shelfred Surdilla
Plastic Venus versus Mars
Two-piece PVC sheet dress with futuristic detailing, with 3-D swirls and cut PVC pipes embellishment. High-heels made of plaster cement, metal heels and cut PVC pipes – by Ushi Sato
Illustrado Barlequin
Out of this world ballerina with a harlequin feel – Illustrado Magazine tear sheets stitched like a puzzle with PVC sheets; bustier top matched with 3-D volume skirt – by Jessie Sindayen
Bridal White Trash
Three-piece ensemble made of a sculpted bolero, bubble wrap corset, and skirt, all appliquéd with embroidered foil and plastic grocery bags, and further embellished with beads made out of foil and softdrink can lids – by Dan De Lima
Chambermaid in Lino
Halter dress made of folded, woven shredded vinyl linoleum, embellished with ruffles and lace cut outs made out of plastic lace table cloth and doilies, studded with inverted crystal clips and held together by cable straps, with no sewing – by Ramil Garrote Noveda
Victorian Bag Lady
Victorian ball gown made of plastic garbage bags, held in by safety pins, accessorized with necklace made out of laundry clips matched with a steel wool bib, steel wool arm “warmers” and braided garbage bag headpiece – by Eros Goze
Designers Guide
*In alphabetical order
Dan Delima – LA DIVA MODA HAUTE COUTURE – Abu Dhabi UAE – Tel: (971) 2
We have fondly given him the title “The ONE and only” – and quite rightly so. Virtually everybody that matters in the regional haute couture industry knows what makes this Dubai-based Filipino artist a stand-out in the world of elite style. However, unbeknownst to many, there is so much more that makes him unique, and that truly establishes “The One” (pronounced ‘oh-nay’) as somebody even larger, than “merely” a true fashion maverick well-ahead of the pack.
If there is anything that truly defines Furne One’s creations it is the word ‘grandiose.’ When you say Furne Amato, it has to be something huge. Nothing is ever small; everything is maximal, dramatic, and larger than life. We have seen his head turning creations on the catwalk and in the pages of reputable glossies around the region. We know of his “shock and awe” attitude to color that is uniquely his, the strong style statements he creates, as well as his “take it all the way” bravado when it comes to design elements which are truly distinctive – whether it is in his irreverent mixing of crystals, patterns and embellishments, or his exaggerated hips or any other latest style fixation of his. A tough act to follow, but the one thing that perhaps matches Furne’s grandiosity in aesthetics is how he attacks work and the design process itself.
Unlike others in the same creative field who look at the small things like elements, colors, or the details and inspirations du jour, Furne thinks and creates in 4D, High Definition, full fashion production drama. “I love films and I am fascinated by big productions especially movies of a gothic nature, or those that revolve around fairytales, vampires and wolves,” the artist shares enthusiastically, his eyes shining. “I think about all the details of the fashion process, from the tinniest embellishments of the clothes, to the fashion show, complete with the music, lighting, ambience, choreography, as well as the models’ styling, make up – the works.” No wonder, Furne’s fashion shows are touted as some of the best and most-awaited in the country.
A fashion designer whose penchant for the unexpected is well known, Furne professes, “When it comes to fashion, of course, I don’t like to be just like everybody else. Having my own identity is very important to me.” He continues, “I design for my own pleasure and it is important for me to get the whole look right. So more than just the dress, I also like to play with the styling. Trying stuff and changing them around, until I achieve just the right and complete look.”
And the process just doesn’t stop there. Seeing the artists creations on the ramp, is one thing, but having a front row peek at how he operates is quite another. Witnessing Furne One in action, one gets a grip of his true gravitas when it comes to his art and discipline. He is never big enough to get his hands dirty, and yet by showing what a consummate professional he is, one who is thoroughly concerned about his craft, who will move just about everything necessary to make sure that he gets what he needs and the richness it deserves, One is head and shoulder above the rest, not only by virtue of creativity, but also with his strong work ethics.
For this month’s Illustrado fashion editorial, the designer, handpicked, set-planned and personally oversaw the casting, styling and phasing of what can only be described as an over-the-top shoot-cum-fashion show which featured 25 lavish haute couture gowns and six models captured in fading daylight. It was elaborate, fussy and huge, but fabulously worth all the trouble – just like any Furne One concoction. Alas, nothing is ever small when it comes to ‘The One and only.’
“I work with my entire team. I am open to suggestions and like to hear comments from my assistants. I do not stop until I get it just right. And of course, in the end, I follow my vision and what I think works best,” the designer remarks.
From an entrepreneurial angle, this Cebu-born design visionary seems to have been blessed with a business acumen that is quite a rarity in the creative field. While most designers are merely purveyors of style, One also displays the astuteness and savvy of a seasoned businessman – one who knows the difference between merely creating fashion, to one who is building a veritable couture business, which has attracted serious investment proposals, and one that is to be reckoned with in the future, not only in the Gulf. Since the emergence of his fashion house in the last five years, Furne has built his brand, Amato, into a strong and reputed haute couture name patronized by an elite roster of clients, including royals. Furne, together with his team of professional consultants, has also managed other aspects of his business including publicity, promotions, and launches of his new collections, with the measured shrewdness of someone who understands exactly how to market his brand. His outward orientation towards the global runway and forays into style hubs like Los Angeles, Miami, and Germany via Germany’s Next Top Model by Heidi Klum, has bode him well and has added another level of prestige to his conquests on the ramps of Dubai, a feat still unequalled by his peers.
In September, Furne is stormed London Fashion Week, to rave reviews, with “Love and War” an Elizabethan inspired collection featuring startling combinations of materials, textures and embellishments, presented to the sound of galloping horses in a dramatic production that is distinctly One’s. The same collection has been showcased in Furne’s homecoming gala show in the Philippines under the auspices of the international charity organization at the Red Cross Ball, held at the Shangri-La Hotel in Makati with Philippine high society in glittering attendance.
Still, with his undisputed success and his providential combination of creativity, hard work and innate business savvy, Furne, looks at his oeuvre with a distinct sense of pragmatism and gratitude. “I’ve been very lucky,” he says as a matter of fact. “There are a lot of good Filipino designers, a lot of hardworking ones too. But you also need luck to be successful. And I have been very fortunate.”
